臻厨
 

红油抄手之抄手的起源

2014-8-25

 红油抄手是四川著名民间风味小食,但不少人对这个名字百思不得其解。因其外貌与我们所见的馄饨无异,只是煮熟后加清汤、辣椒油和其它调味料配合食用。单凭其辣椒味,红油之名已不言而喻,但何以会有抄手之名?抄手和馄饨又有何关系?两者表面上看来,绝对是风马牛不相及,任阁下创意多高,也很难将之联想起来吧?


其实只要熟悉四川人生活习惯,答案已在眼前。因为四川馄饨的包法,与四川人天冷时把两只手“抄”在大褂袖笼种取暖之动作十分相似,故四川人惯称馄饨为抄手。即是说,馄饨非四川独有产物,在全国各地也有,只是在用料方面有别,而名称亦会因地方有异而有不同,例如广东人会称为“云吞”,福建人则会称之为“扁食”。

不过,在成都,抄手又另有意思,因其所指的是以鸡、鸭和猪肉,经猛炖慢煨而成的又白、又浓、又醇之鲜美汤汁所提味的抄手,非酸味香辣的四川红油抄手。所以下次叫抄手前,最好看清楚是四川还是成都,因为抄手是可以不辣的!

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